How Much Are My OEM Wheels Worth? A No-BS Price Guide by Brand
You've got OEM wheels. You want to know what they're worth. You don't want to read 3,000 words of fluff before getting to the numbers.
I respect that. Let's get straight to it.
We've been buying OEM wheels at Santa Ana Wheel for decades. We've handled over 47,000 wheels since 1958. So these aren't theoretical numbers pulled from nowhere — they're based on what wheels actually sell for in the real market, right now, in 2026.
Quick Value Ranges by Brand
These are per-wheel prices for used OEM wheels in good condition (minor wear okay, no cracks, no severe bends). Prices fluctuate based on specific model, size, and demand — but this gives you a solid ballpark.
Economy Brands:
- Toyota: $35-150 per wheel (Corolla on the low end, 4Runner/Tundra higher)
- Honda: $35-130 (Civic base low, Pilot/Ridgeline higher)
- Nissan: $30-110 (Sentra low, Maxima/Murano higher)
- Hyundai/Kia: $30-100 (entry models low, Genesis/Telluride higher)
Domestic Brands:
- Ford: $40-180 (Focus/Fusion low, F-150/Bronco higher)
- Chevy/GMC: $45-200 (Malibu low, Silverado/Tahoe higher)
- Dodge/Ram: $45-180 (Charger base low, Ram 1500 higher)
- Jeep: $50-200 (Cherokee low, Wrangler Rubicon higher)
Premium/Luxury Brands:
- BMW: $80-350 (3 Series base low, M Sport / X5 higher)
- Mercedes: $90-400 (C-Class low, AMG/GLS higher)
- Audi: $80-300 (A4 base low, RS models higher)
- Lexus: $70-250 (IS base low, LS/LC higher)
High-End/Specialty:
- Porsche: $150-600+ (Cayenne base lower, 911 Turbo much higher)
- Tesla: $100-400 (Model 3 standard low, Model X/S higher)
- Land Rover: $100-350 (Discovery Sport low, Range Rover higher)
- Maserati/Jaguar: $120-500+
Got a set of four? Multiply accordingly, but sets often command a 10-15% premium over individual wheels because they're more convenient for the buyer.
The 5 Things That Actually Determine Your Wheel's Value
Those ranges above are pretty wide. Here's what puts you at the top or bottom.
1. Size — Bigger Usually Means More Money
A 16-inch steel wheel from a base Camry? Maybe $25-35. An 18-inch alloy from a Camry XSE? Now we're talking $80-120. And a 20-inch wheel from a truck or SUV? Even more.
The market has shifted hard toward larger wheels over the past decade. Manufacturers keep upsizing factory wheels — what used to be 15-inch standard is now 17-18 inch. Those bigger wheels cost more to make and they cost more to replace. Simple economics.
2. Condition — Be Honest With Yourself
This is where most people overprice their wheels. "Excellent condition" to a seller and "excellent condition" to a buyer are often very different things.
Here's how we grade it:
- Mint/A-grade: Looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor. No curb rash, no scratches, finish is perfect. Worth full price.
- Good/B-grade: Light curb rash on one or two wheels, minor scratches. The vast majority of used wheels fall here. Worth 70-85% of mint price.
- Fair/C-grade: Noticeable curb damage on multiple wheels, scratches through the clear coat, maybe some corrosion spots. Worth 40-60% of mint.
- Poor/D-grade: Heavy damage, bent, cracked, or severe corrosion. Might still have scrap or refinishing value — $10-30 per wheel.
Take an honest look at your wheels. Turn them in the sunlight. Feel the edges with your finger. If you can feel curb rash, a buyer will see it instantly.
3. Demand — What's Hot Right Now
Some wheels are worth more simply because more people need them. Trucks and SUVs? Always in demand — F-150, Silverado, Tahoe, RAV4 wheels move fast. Compact sedans? Slower market, lower prices.
There's also a seasonal element nobody talks about. We see a spike in demand after winter (people replacing salt-damaged wheels in spring) and after summer road trip season (pothole damage). Time your sale right and you can get 10-15% more.
4. Rarity — Limited Edition = Premium Price
Sport package wheels, special edition wheels, and option-only wheel designs command serious premiums. A standard BMW 3 Series wheel? Fine, solid value. A BMW M3 Competition wheel? Now you've got something special.
Same goes for discontinued models. When a car stops production, the wheels become harder and harder to source. That Pontiac G8 GXP wheel that nobody cared about in 2015? It's worth real money now because there are zero new ones being made.
5. Market and Material
Forged wheels are worth more than cast. Chrome-plated OEM wheels (yes, they exist — certain Cadillac and Lincoln models) fetch a premium over painted aluminum. Steel wheels are worth the least unless they're for a specific application where people need them.
And honestly? The overall market fluctuates. Aluminum prices, economic conditions, even gas prices affect the used wheel market. When gas goes up, SUV sales slow down, and SUV wheel demand follows. It's all connected.
How to Figure Out Exactly What You've Got
Before you price anything, identify your wheels precisely. Here's how:
Find the part number. It's stamped or cast into the back of the wheel. OEM part numbers are unique to each wheel design — that's your definitive identifier. Google it and you'll find the exact application.
Measure the size. Diameter (e.g., 17 inches) and width (e.g., 7.5 inches) are stamped on the back too, usually in a format like "17x7.5J." If you can't find it, measure the diameter of the bead seat — the flat part where the tire sits — not the overall diameter including the lip.
Check the bolt pattern. Count the lug holes (4, 5, 6, or 8) and measure the bolt circle diameter. A 5x114.3 means 5 lugs on a 114.3mm circle. This info is crucial for matching buyers. More details in our bolt pattern guide.
Note the finish. Painted silver, machine-faced, polished, dark chrome, matte black — the finish affects both value and buyer pool.
Where to Check Market Prices
Want to sanity-check these numbers? Here's what I'd do:
- eBay sold listings: Search your wheel's part number + "sold" to see actual transaction prices. Not asking prices — sold prices. Big difference.
- Facebook Marketplace: Search your area for similar wheels. Note that asking prices on FB skew high because people list high and negotiate down.
- Call a wheel buyer: Get a quote from us. It's free, it takes 60 seconds, and it gives you a real market baseline. Even if you decide to sell elsewhere, you'll know your floor price.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do OEM wheels lose value over time?
Slowly, yes — but much slower than you'd think. A 5-year-old OEM wheel in good condition might be worth 60-80% of what it was worth new. Compare that to aftermarket wheels that can lose 50%+ in the first year. OEM holds value because the demand is structural — body shops and dealerships will always need them.
Are OEM wheels from older cars worth anything?
Often yes! Wheels from popular models (Camry, Civic, F-150, Silverado) from the 2010s still have strong value because those cars are still on the road. The exception is very old or obscure models where the remaining car population is tiny. When in doubt, ask us.
My wheels have TPMS sensors — does that add value?
Slightly. Working TPMS sensors add $10-20 per wheel in value. But most buyers plan to use their own sensors, so it's not a huge factor. Don't remove them though — some buyers do want them, and it's easier to include than exclude.
Should I refinish damaged wheels before selling?
Usually no. Professional wheel refinishing costs $75-150 per wheel. If you're selling a set of Honda Civic wheels worth $50 each, spending $300-600 on refinishing makes zero sense. The buyer (especially a business buyer like us) factors in their own refinishing cost. Sell as-is and price accordingly.
What's the fastest way to get a price for my specific wheels?
Snap a photo of each wheel (front and back), note the vehicle year/make/model/trim, and submit them to us. We'll have a quote back to you within 24 hours. We've been pricing OEM wheels for 68 years — we know the market cold.
The Used OEM Wheel Market Is Growing
Something interesting is happening. As new car prices keep climbing — average transaction price hit over $48,000 in 2025 — people are holding onto their cars longer. Average vehicle age on the road is now over 12 years. That's a lot of cars needing replacement parts, including wheels.
The used OEM wheel market benefits directly from this trend. More older cars means more wheel damage from years of daily driving, and more demand for affordable OEM replacements. Your wheels aren't getting less valuable anytime soon. If anything, the market's in your favor.
Turn Those Wheels Into Cash
Your OEM wheels have real value. Whether they're sitting in your garage, stacked in a corner of your shop, or on a car you're parting out — someone needs them. Probably today.
At Santa Ana Wheel, we make it dead simple. Get your free quote, accept it if it works for you, and get paid. No auctions, no strangers, no waiting around. Just wheels for cash, the way we've been doing it since 1958.
